
Seid ihr auf der Suche nach Tipps für erfolgreiche Nähprojekte? Ich werde manchmal gefragt, ob ich auch schonmal Dinge für die Tonne nähe. Wenn wir Prototypen für unsere Schnittduett Schnittmuster nähen, passiert es natürlich, dass auch untragbare Teile entstehen. Da wird bewusst mit Stoffarten und Passformmerkmalen experimentiert. Und ja, über die Jahre hab ich auch an meinem Nähtisch so manchen Unsinn produziert. Bei vielen Fehlern oder Fehlstücken konnte ich mir dabei an die eigene Nase fassen. Natürlich ist es auch schon vorgekommen, dass ein Schnittmuster sich als gar nicht für mich geeignet entpuppt hat. Aber in den meisten Fällen habe ich bestimmte Dinge nicht beachtet, aus Mangel an Erfahrung oder weil ich keine Lust hatte, mich an Vorgaben zu halten, oder solche bewusst ignoriert hab. Ich hab euch heute mal meine zwölf wichtigsten Tipps aufgeschrieben, die die Chance erhöhen, dass das Nähprojekt zu einem Erfolg wird. Selbst erprobt bei mir. Dieser Post richtet sich vor allem an Nähanfänger und Leute mit wenig Näherfahrung. Ich freue mich aber immer wieder besonders, wenn die Erfahrenen unter euch ebenfalls eure Tipps in den Kommentaren da lassen.
Meine 12 Tipps für erfolgreiche Nähprojekte
1. Das richtige Mindset
Macht euch von vornherein darauf gefasst, dass ihr bei einem neuen Schnitt eventuell etwas ändern müsst. Jeder Körper ist individuell. Schnittmuster werden von vornherein auf bestimme Standardgrößen mit vorgegebenen Referenzmaßen erstellt. Die eigenen Maße werden in einem der Referenzräume innerhalb der Maßtabelle auftauchen. Es ist ein sehr großer Zufall, dass dann auf Anhieb alles passt. Besonders, wenn es ein figurnaher Schnitt ist. Bei Schnittmustern mit etwas Mehrweite fallen Passformprobleme oft nicht besonders auf.
Ich habe bei den meisten Schnittmustern die ich nähe, die Erfahrung gemacht, dass ich in der Regel immer etwas enger nähen muss. Das kann damit zusammenhängen, dass die Designer*innen bei der Erstellung überlegen, dass etwas Größeres anzupassen leichter ist, als dass es zu eng ist. Die Passform ist auch davon abhängig, ob ich mit meinen Maßen am Anfang einer Größe in der Maßtabelle stehe, oder am Ende. Bei manchen Schnittmustern hatte ich das Gefühl, dass sie sich bei der Schnittmustererstellung an ihren eigenen Proportionen orientiert haben, was sich dann manchmal auch in der Schnittführung wiederfindet.
Generell muss ich oft an einer Schulter etwas anpassen: Eine Schulter ist bei mir ganz leicht tiefer und auch ein Bein etwas kürzer. An der einen Schulter steht bei mir generell also generell immer ein bisschen etwas ab und auch Hosen sehen auf der einen Seite leicht anders aus, so dass ich das etwas ausgleichen muss am Ende.Auch die Taille muss ich bei manchen Schnittmustern etwas kürzer setzen. Bei bestehenden Schnitten habe ich diese Änderung schon auf den Papierschnitt übertragen und kann es so neu zuschneiden. Bei neuen Schnitten nähe ich immer erst und ändere, wenn das Problem besteht.
Mit diesem Mindset, dass ich am Ende vielleicht etwas ändern muss, starte ich meist ein Nähprojekt und finde es am Ende nicht schlimm, hier ein bisschen anzupassen.
2. Anleitung richtig lesen
Es lohnt sich, vor dem Nähstart die Anleitung einmal richtig durchzulesen. Die Designer schreiben dort hinein, was zum Nähprojekt wichtig ist und es sollte im Vorfeld gelesen werden. Was steht dort genau zu Stoffempfehlung, Maßen, Größenauswahl, Nahtzugabe, eventuell auch zu Anpassungsideen oder weiterführende Tipps. Nehmt alles wissen daraus mit, dass ihr auf euer Nähprojekt anwenden könnt. Lest ihr die Anleitung im Vorfeld, verpasst ihr keine wichtigen Infos, die zum Erfolg des Nähprojekts beitragen. So habe ich mir mal einen Body ruiniert, weil ich nicht darauf geachtet habe, dass bi-elastischer Jersey verwendet werden soll. Also Jersey, der in beide Richtungen elastisch ist. Am Ende hatte ich zwar einen schönen Body, ich hatte aber Probleme, ihn unten zuzuschließen, weil die Dehnbarkeit in diese Richtung nicht so stark war.
3. Sorgfältige Planung und Recherche
Am schönsten funktioniert ein Nähprojekt, wenn ich alle Materialien im Vorfeld vorliegen und parat habe. Dafür mache ich mir eine Liste mit den erforderlichen Materialien. Habe ich richtige Vlieseinlage vorrätig? Ist das Garn in der richtigen Farbe da? Habe ich den richtigen Reißverschluss oder passende Knöpfe in der richtigen Anzahl? Damit bleibe ich im Flow und das Nähprojekt landet nicht erst in der Ecke, bis ich wieder die richtigen Materialien beisammen hab.
Jetzt im Lockdown war ich da ein bisschen sanfter, denn teilweise war es gar nicht so einfach, alles auf die Schnelle online zusammenzustellen. Da hab ich auch schonmal ein dunkles Teil mit weißen Overlockgarn versäubert. Au weia. Aber ich trage das Teil trotzdem gern!
Es passiert mir oft, dass mir ein Schnitt erst auf den zweiten Blick gefällt, weil jemand aus der Community ihn mit einem bestimmten Stoff genäht hat und dann kommt der „Oh Mist, das muss ich auch haben Effekt“. Gerade bei neuen Schnittmustern, recherchiere ich gezielt nach Blogposts, analysiere Passformen & Co. und lese die Texte, die dazu geschrieben werden. Ich bin sehr dankbar, wenn jemand dazuschreibt, was er geändert hat und wenn ich vielleicht auch die verwendeten Maße der Person direkt irgendwo sehen kann. Denn auch ich habe Leute, die ich online für meinen Maßzwilling halte. Mit solchen Änderungsmaßnahmen im Hinterkopf gehe ich ganz anders an das Nähprojekt heran.
4. Richtige Stoff- und Materialauswahl
Schonmal einen tollen Flatterrock auf einem Schnittmuster gesehen und dann nach dem Nähen gemerkt, dass er bei euch gar nicht so flatterig wird? Habt ihr euch an die Stoffempfehlung gehalten? Schnittmuster werden meist mit bestimmten Stoffen im Kopf entworfen. Und jedes Schnittmuster sitzt mit unterschiedlichen Stoffen anders. Figurbetonte Kleidungsstücke machen oft mit etwas Elasthananteil oder aus Strickstoffen etwas her. Weite Schnitte schauen aus fließenden dünnen Materialien gut aus und umspielen den Körper. Jeder Schnitt hat eine charakteristischen Passform mit dem jeweiligen Stoff. Experimentieren macht hier natürlich auch sehr viel Spaß, solange man das Ergebnis als Experiment betrachtet, das glückt oder eben nicht.
Vlieseinlage sollte immer die gleiche Stärke haben wie euer Stoff. Gerade bei Viskose oder leichten Stoffen, kann ein Beleg, der mit zu starker Vlieseinlage verstärkt wurde zu steif sein und beim Tragen stören.
5. Stoff vorwaschen
Ich habe mal einen kompletten Artikel darüber verfasst, warum ich ein Verfechter von Vorwäsche von Stoffen bin. Der wichtigste Grund: Stoff neigt dazu, einzugehen beim Waschen. Mit dem Vorwaschen habt ihr bereits den Stoff in der eingegangenen Größe Fassung und verringert so die Gefahr, dass sich das Kleidungsstück nach dem Nähen verzieh tun weiter einläuft. Außerdem könnt ihr den Stoff so auf seine Farbechtheit überprüfen und seht im Vorfeld, wie sich der Stoff nach dem Waschen verhält.
6. Richtig Maßnehmen
Vergesst beim Nähen eure Konfektionsgröße, die ihr zum Kaufen von Kleidung nutzt. Messt euch gründlich ab und kategorisiert euch in die Maßtabelle, die das Schnittmuster vorgibt. Ausführliche Tipps zum richtigen Maßnehmen findet ihr in diesem Blogpost. Es lohnt sich, sich vor einem neuen Nähprojekt wieder neu zu vermessen, wenn ihr ein paar Wochen nicht genäht habt, da sich Maße schnell ändern können.
7. Maßtabelle beachten
Die Maßtabelle ist eine gute Orientierung zur Eingliederung in die richtige Größenkategorie. Wenn ihr dabei zwischen zwei Größen liegt, könnt ihr euch in die größere einordnen und später ggf. etwas enger nähen. Die Maßtabelle mit fertigen Maßen – sofern sie existiert – gibt euch einen guten Überblick darüber, wie viel Mehrweite im Schnittmuster enthalten ist und den Spielraum, den ihr dabei ggf. habt. Bitte beachtet aber, dass eine gewisse Mehrweite wichtig ist. Es sollte immer 4 – 6 cm Spielraum gegeben sein, damit ein normal sitzendes Kleidungsstück Bewegungsspielraum bietet.
8. Bügeln
Ett hätt noch immer jot jejange. Es ist bisher noch immer gutgegangen. Ein kölsches Sprichwort, das man auch gut auf’s Bügeln von Nähprojekten beziehen kann. Ihr glaubt gar nicht, wie oft ich es geschafft habe, Fehler auszubügeln. Bügeln ist super hilfreich beim Nähen. Vor dem Zuschneiden zieht sich der Stoff durch eine gute Bügeltour in eine schöne glatte Form und ihr verhindert Falten und unsauberen Zuschnitt. Nach dem Zusammennähen legen sich die Nähte schön flach und das Kleidungsstück kann in Form genäht werden. Auch beim Nähen mit Jersey ist es unerlässlich, dass ihr eure Kleidungsstücke vor und nach dem Nähen bügelt. Denn damit könnt ihr Beulen und Wellen gut entgegenarbeiten.
9. Markierungen übernehmen und beachten
Knipse, Abnäher und Co. direkt beim Zuschnitt mit zu übernehmen ist sinnvoll und spart euch später Zeit und unnötiges Gegrübel. Achtet beim Nähen darauf, dass ihr Knipse aufeinander legt. Soll Stoff beim Nähen Eingehalten werden? Dann haltet die Stellen ein und schneidet überflüssige Kanten nicht einfach ab.
10. Fadenlauf beachten
Der Fadenlauf bestimmt die Richtung in die ihr euer Schnittteil auflegt. Er ist wichtig um den richtigen Fall des Kleidungsstückes zu bestimmen. Ein in Fadenlaufrichtung zugeschnittener Stoff ist elastischer als einer der gegen den Fadenlauf zugeschnitten ist. Im schrägen Fadenlauf zugeschnitten, fällt ein Stoff noch einmal anders und elastischer. Diese Art des Zuschnitts wird besonders bei Tellerröcken etc. verwendet. In diesem Artikel habe ich mal ausführlich über den Fadenlauf berichtet.
11. Nahtzugabe beachten
Schaut in die Anleitung, ob eine Nahtzugabe gegeben ist. Die Nahtzugabe ist eine Hinzufügung von Fläche an die Originalmaße, um zu gewährleisten, dass das Kleidungsstück zusammengenäht werden kann. Die Originalmaße werden dabei also eingehalten. Wenn man von dieser vorgegebenen Fläche abweicht, egal ob darüber oder darunter, verändert man die ursprünglichen Maße. Es kann also passieren, dass das Kleidungsstück dann entweder zu eng oder zu locker ist. Wenn das Schnittmuster die Nahtzugabe im Soff also angegegeben hat, müsst ihr nichts weiter tun, als Euch daran zu halten. Wenn dort also steht, 1,5 cm, dann näht ihr mit 1,5 cm, NICHT mit 1 cm. 0,5 cm Unterschied mögen Euch auf Anhieb nicht viel erscheinen, aber wenn ihr Oberteil zusammennäht und auf jeder Nahtseite 0,5 cm im Stoff lasst, habt ihr insgesamt 2 cm Mehrweite in das Kleidungsstück eingebaut. Das ist ziemlich viel und entscheidet darüber, wie ein Oberteil sitzt.
Sind die Nahtzugaben nicht mit einkalkuliert, was auch meist in der Anleitung angegeben ist, müsst ihr diese selbst hinzuaddieren (und euch beim Nähen daran halten). Üblicherweise verwende ich 1 cm Nahtzugabe, bei Säumen 4 cm. Wenn ihr näht, ohne Nahtzugabe hinzuzuaddieren, verändert ihr beim Nähen ebenfalls die beabsichtigten Originalmaße. Das Kleidungsstück wird enger als vorgegeben.
Wenn ihr mit einer Overlock die Schnitteile vorher versäubert, achtet darauf, dass ihr mit dem Messer nichts von der Nahtzugabe wegschneidet.
12. Probeteil nähen oder mit großen Stichen vorheften
Seitdem wir Schnittmuster erstellen, liebe ich Probeteile. Sie zeigen genau auf, was nicht passt und ich kann mir auf den Stoff aufzeichnen, was ich ändern möchte. Früher fand ich Probeteile ziemlich langweilig und zeitaufwendig. Aber es kann wirklich sehr hilfreich sein, gerade bei Schnittmustern mit denen ihr noch keine Erfahrungen habt. Man muss nicht immer Nesselstoff kaufen. Wichtig ist, dass der Stoff dem ähnelt, mit dem ihr später das Original nähen möchtet.
Wenn ihr einen Stoff verwendet, der nicht ganz so teuer ist wie der im Original zu verwendende, dann habt ihr euch vielleicht auch schon ein tragbares Probeteil genäht. Probestücke müssen nicht immer von vornherein für die Tonne genäht werden. Sie verhindern aber, dass der gute Stoff, denn ihr mit Liebe ausgewählt habt, am Ende nicht brauchbar ist, weil ihr euch mit der Passform nicht wohlfühlt.
Wer partout kein Probeteil nähen möchte, kann im Vorfeld auch mit großen Nähmaschinenstichen die für die Passform relevanten Teile mit großen Stichen der Nähmaschine zusammennähen, so dass ihr im Zweifel auftrennen könnt. Passt das Stück, könnt ihr einfach über die bestehenden Nähte drüber nähen ohne alles noch einmal aufzutrennen.

Ich hoffe ich konnte euch mit den Tipps helfen, etwas bewusster an eure Nähprojekte heranzutreten. Wenn ihr zu Schnittmustern fragen habt, könnt ihr immer schauen, ob die Designer*innen nicht bereits auf ihrem Blog Sewalongs, Tipps und Kniffe verfasst haben. Manche haben auch Facebook Gruppen. Oder aber ihr schreibt eine Mail an sie. Viele von ihnen helfen bestimmt wirklich gern.
Habt ihr auch Tipps die ihr gerne teilen möchtet? Hinterlasst sie doch gerne in den Kommentaren, ich freue mich!
Herzliche Grüße,
Selmin
Julia
Zum Thema Maßnehmen: Messt nicht nur aktuell eure Körperregionen, sondern messt auch auf dem Schnitt nach, ob die Stellen im Schnitt ungefähr passen. Mir ist es mal passiert, dass ich mich artig für ein Kleid gemessen und nach der Tabelle eine 38-40-44 gehabt hätte, aber der Schnitt war so kastig und zeltartig designed, dass ich an jeder Stelle locker in eine 38 gepasst hätte. Das ist zwar ein bisschen Taschenrechnergefuchtel, aber es lohnt sich, weil ihr Stoff spart.
Im Übrigen nehme ich den Schnitt mit Seidenpapier abgepaust gern mit ins Geschäft und richte ihn auf den Stoff des Verlangens aus. Plus ca. 15% Mehrweite einplanen und dann diese Länge kaufen, statt blind der Stofflängenempfehlung folgen, hat mich vor vielen unliebsamen und teuren Resten bewahrt.
Selmin Ermis-Krohs
Hallo Julia, danke für deinen Kommentar. Ja das mit dem Messen direkt auf dem Schnitt ist auch sinnvoll, vor allem auch, wenn es keine Tabelle mit den fertigen Maßen gibt. Der Tipp mit dem zugeschnittenen Schnitt im Stoffladen ist auch Gold wert! Danke! Liebe Grüße, Selmin
Edita
Danke für die Tipps. Besonders das mit dem richtigen Mindset hat mich angesprochen.
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